Saturday, April 14, 2012



A new way of seeing Confucius!

 # 7 Crashing Confucius’ Party

"The common person sees beauty in grand things;the wise person sees grandeur in common things."
Confucius

      How is it that my brother Glen and I are sipping wine and snacking on exotic hors d’oeuvres with the arts crowd at a “by invitation only” opening for the Confucius exhibit at the Rockbund art Museum in Shanghai?

      I guess it started in Beijing with my suggestion to visit the Temple of Heaven, described in Fodor’s as the “one of the largest temple complexes in China and a paradigm of architectural balance and symbolism."  It rates two full pages in the travel guide where most sites get the equivalent of a tweet. So I figure, as I read it out loud, that  it will be a worthwhile stop.

      Glen, with another big eye roll, (see previous post) exclaims that if he never sees an effing temple again, it will be too soon! Keep in mind that my baby brother  has spent considerable time in Thailand and in  a gazillion other countries and as such has seen quite a few temples. A little jaded? Maybe. So instead of spending an afternoon at the Temple or the fantabulous and opulent  Summer Palace (I quote: "who gives a F#@! about seeing how the rich people lived??") we wander on a circuitous trajectory that might or might not lead to the Temple of Confucius.  Yes it’s a temple, but at least it’s a lesser known one, a bit off the beaten path.  I know this because we used a magnifier to locate it on the Beijing Street map, while the Temple of Heaven is clearly visible with the naked eye, taking up a full square centimeter of map space.

      It's a dingy gray smoggy day, which is to say, a typical day in Bejing. We head North on Wangfujing Daji and wander into one of the many hutong areas of the city. Hutongs are walled self contained single story city blocks. Within which are winding narrow streets and tiny living quarters.

       The hutongs are still home to many Beijing residents, but in recent years lots of them have been razed to make way for new development. The word is that they will soon all disappear. Typical development in China. Guess we call it Manifest Destiny in the West. Doubt those Beijingers got much recompense for vacating their homes, though. Meandering through the narrow alleyways gives a glimpse of the lives of the Beijing of the 13th century as well as of some residents today.

Hutong

Hutong



        A right turn onto Guoziajian Jie brings us close to the Temple, but we are in no hurry. We stop to sip a beer at a funky street cafe and watch the parade of people amble down the pedestrian street through the gray, misty Beijing afternoon.




Across from the cafe...



Guess who?
       Finally at the temple we are welcomed by a smiling white stone Confucius.    Serenity permeates the temple courtyard, enhanced by the fine mist that puts everything into soft focus. The temple is similar to other structures we have seen in Beijing. The walls bear colorful ornate painting in bright blue and red. Intricate carvings adorn the roof. Massive stylized lion statues are positioned in the open courtyard.   The requisite gift shop beckons and we succumb; we while away considerable time examining intricate Chinese paper cuts, Mao's Little Red Book and books of Chinese characters.  
       A modest museum housing a history of Confucius' life occupies the West end of the courtyard. In the museum we also find a description of the Confucius Institutes whose purpose is "the promotion and teaching of Chinese culture and language abroad, the encouraging of trade tries, and the extension of the Chinese Party-State's campaign of "soft power" into the educational sphere in foreign countries". A world map shows locations of over 350 such institutes from Kansas to Boston. 
You can find  Confucius Institute at many locations.  Hmmm, is this a plot for world domination????

http://college.chinese.cn/en/node_1979.htm

Seems that there’s some controversy over these Institutes infiltrating the world.   Beware the Chinese!!

      Fast forward from our mellow educational day in Confucius' Temple to an early morning stroll around Shanghai. The return route to our home in Shanghai “Manhattan Bund Hotel” takes me down a side street and the rear entrance of the Rockbund Art Museum. A poster of a giant and very realistic (as in - you can see the pores in his skin) bust of Confucius catches my eye. There’s also a large white temporary stage in the pedestrian area near the museum; perhaps a concert is happening? I note the date of the opening : October 15.  Just before we leave to go to the opening on the 15th I notice in a newspaper that the opening is by invitation only. Well, it’s not too far away, so we decide to check it out anyway.  A hum of activity and music greets us as we turn down the street toward the museum.  Guards are positioned along the street. Any minute one of them will ask for our invitations. But no, we merge with the outdoor crowd, casually pick up  glasses of wine from one of the waiters and start taking in the show. 
     On that white stage that I had seen a couple of mornings ago is a strange and thought provoking performance. The performers move slowly with Tai Chi like movements as if through fluid. Each in turn slides down a 20 foot high white ramp, their paint covered bodies leaving abstract trails . Loud percussive music provides a counterpoint to the performers'  monotonous, fluid, captivating dance of abstraction. “What was that?” Glen and I muse, shaking our heads in bewilderment?  Art is making us think again!
Yes - this is a terrible photo!  Rita should have been her to do the photos!  Included her only t show the stage with the beginning of the painting on the sloped shite surface...

       Wine and hors d’oeuvres dispatched, we converse with an artist who invites us to her show at the Shanghai Industrial Center next day and even gives us tickets! She’s a very direct lady. She makes it quite clear that she is looking for a man and my attempts to engage her in other conversation fail. We exchange a few more pleasantries and move on.

      The Q Confucius exhibit by artist Zhang Huan concludes our immersion in the great philosopher’s life.

Floor One: Being the only person in the room with the giant sculpture whose heart beating heart is visible through is lifelike plastic skin is transcendent and spooky.
Just me and the BIG GUY - hanging out.

Floor two: is home to large textured paintings......
Spooky testured paintings - not really sure what this has to do with Confucius, but they are...interesting!

Floor three:  A caged Confucius flails about violently while monkeys cavort around the room -sized cage. Whew! This really gives me a new view of Confucius. I’m not sure what to think, but my neurons are firing for sure.

Animated confucius.  What does this say???

http://asiasociety.org/blog/asia/video-robotic-confucius-steel-cage-aims-provoke-debate-chinese-society                      (This link shows the robotic Confucius in motion!)

What does it all mean???  It does give us pause!    I guess that’s the purpose of art: to convey so much concentrated content that we are forced to grapple with it. Or walk away.

   Crashing Confucius’ party iss a cool way to culminate our visit to Shanghai. . Plus it's fun and thought provoking and the wine is pretty good too!     On my bookshelf at home there's a copy of The Sayings of Confucius.  Here's one of them: The Common person sees beauty in grand things;the wise person sees grandeur in common things. The Confucius Temple and the exhibits at the Rockbund are somehow both common and grand.   Come to think of it, perhaps that ability to convey pardox is another characteristic of art?

Monday, February 20, 2012

                                             The Great Wall is Pretty Great


Glen and Bon promoting Peace

       My brother Glen and I don’t agree on everything, but on this point, there is no contest: Seeing the Great Wall is a no brainer. I can’t imagine anyone going to Beijing and not making the extra effort to get out of town and see it. Personally, after about 3 days in any city I start hankering for wide open spaces, mountains with hiking trails and fewer people!. So I contemplate exploring a less traveled section of the GW. This translates into a section farther away from the city, requiring a longer drive (or bus ride - nobody rents cars in China)
        Nothing is easy. There are so many options. Google “Great Wall Tours” and you’ll see what I mean!. Badaling , Mutianyu, Simitai; full day, ½ day, combination GW/Summer Palace Tour; Hotel pickup sounds great, but if you are the first one on board you get to spend considerable time schlepping around picking up all of the other guests! The Jinshanling options sound good and the price is “reasonable”. We are picked up at 7am and predictably, we’re among the “early arrivals”. On the bright side we get a bus tour of Beijing out of it. (not a very great bus tour, but trying to accentuate the positive)


      We arrive at a second departure point at which we board another bus. Our group has grown to about 30 by this time and incredibly, the bus seats were apparently designed with very tiny persons in mind. There is far less knee room in this bus seat than in any economy class airplane seat I have ever occupied! My knees are compressed against the seat in front of me.

It was quite steep!
Our tour guide joins us at this point and off handedly mentions that in just two hours we will arrive at Jinshanling and begin our hike of the steepest section of the GW. Glen’s expression is predictable. Big eye roll and “just as I expected” look. We had debated whether it would be worth the travel time to see a less touristed part of the Wall. Now we both consider jumping ship! We had already been en route for about 1 ½ hrs; guess the advertised travel timeof 2 hrs starts now! AARRGGHH. I pull a couple of bottles of  Tsingdao beer out of my backpack and soon we are feeling slightly more mellow about the situation.
       Some of the folks on the sardine bus turn out to be pretty interesting. There’s the Tasmanian group occupying the back seats (4 gents and 1 gal, all returning from a wedding in Xian, home of the famousTerra Cotta Warriors);  Adrian sits across the aisle.  He's a 27 year old American on a long weekend from his English teaching job in Korea and as we say in Maine,  "he's a real "sweethaht"

Adrian, Bataar (my  Mongolian friend) and me;
a well restored section of the Jinshanling Wall


One thing that I enjoy about getting out of the city and covering some ground is just seeing the lay of the land. It takes some time to escape the massive metropolis of Beijing, miles and miles of new high rise buildings, shrouded in fog and pollution and pulsing with people!

As we near our destination and find ourselves surrounded by tree covered slopes, we catch glimpses of the Wall here and there in the distance.  When we finally arrive at the Jinshanling entrance and see the Wall close up, looming over us, looking every bit of its legend, any irritation resulting from travel hassles completely evaporates.


Wow! In fact, lots of “wows”! We gape and gawk and express amazement. Not every “destination” delivers on its mystique. This one does. I am somewhat of an easy critic. Not so my baby brother Glen. But he too is awestruck. And for the next 4 hours we hike and explore and wish that we had more time at this magical place.




We take more photographs here than in any other part of China (even Shanghai) Each turn around a bend or arrival at the top or bottom of a slope presents another spectacular National geographic worthy panorama of ancient architecture and construction. The Wall winds back and forth snake like along the ridgelines. I can imagine lighted torches at the WatchTowers at each high point and the sentries who stood watch.



I can  imagine the laborers who spent their lives assembling this monumental stonework I think about this as we scale some very steep sections. I also think about how sore my thighs will be in the morning as my heart thumps loudly in my chest.

Me, Adrian and my Mongolian friend...

Mongolian vendors are everywhere. They follow us. We had been “warned”: “Just keep walking, but I can’t help myself. I strart talking to one of them and have a shadow for the rest of the hike. I don’t mind; of course he wants o sell something, but it’s an opportunity to connect. And I have never met a Mongolian before! He is very sweet and helpful, offering to give me a hand on some of the treacherous parts and guiding us around obstacles. Much of this part of the Wall has not been restored, so you do have to tread carefully. 
That's me and Adrian..on a pretty ragged part of the Wall


 Adrian tags along with us. What a nice kid. I find it cool that he seems to want to chat with a couple of old duffers. Perhaps it’s nice to connect with people from back home. Anyway, he is good company and seems suitably impressed that the duffers are in pretty good shape for this hike. “Nothing like Kilimanjaro”, I say, doing a little not so subtle name dropping! :)  Adrian responds with appropriate awe! 


Me at Kili - a while back..sheesh what a name-dropper..

We reach the turn around. A couple of the Tasmanians are there too. Crazy people those Tasmanians! One guy has done the walk wearing flip flops, on purpose it seems. After some good natured banter with the Tasmanians and a purchase from my trusty Mongolian side-kick, we turn back, regretfully. 

Crazy Tasmanian on a short-cut; resting his flip-flopped feet!

The wall beckons. I would love to have a backpack with a tent and a few days provisions and just keep going. But I am lucky to have seen even this short section of this incredible structure.

Backtracking on a hike is so inferior to doing a loop! And pondering steep sections in reverse is daunting. But the views are still outstanding and the time flies by.
Half way back, Glen encounters a kindred spirit. The picture says it all: 

Iron Maiden fans stand out anywhere in the world.

You would have thought they were long lost brothers! 


Suddenly we are back at our starting point, back on the gondola that had lifted us up to the wall to save time, and back on the bus.

Arriving in Beijing, we ditch the bus, bypassing the long drop-off session. Glen, Adrian and I arrange to meet up in an “expat” part of town for the evening. And that’s a story for another blog post. For now, we are suitably exhausted and energized by experiencing a true wonder of the world.


Celebrating the Wall

Sunday, January 22, 2012


We Are The Aliens in The Picture



         I’ve never seen so many snaphappy people.  Chinese people love to take photographs, especially of themselves with cool backdrops. Yes,  Americans are masters of this - hold the Iphone at arms length , grin and post on Facebook asap.  Incredibly, the Chinese might have us beat at this. Maybe it’s because of the Bund.   A walk along the Bund in Shanghai is sort of like walking along the rim of the Grand Canyon.  No matter what time of day or night, no matter what the weather conditions, it’s serious eye candy.  It’s sublime. On the East side of the Huang Po River, erected in a spasm of insane construction between 1994 and the present, stand the most absurdly neon skyscrapers and space needles on the planet. I am told that during the orgy of building, it was difficult to secure a crane in China.  Shanghai had them all booked.


Glen, Moon and Pudong Skyline.
Photo of first Pudong construction.  Compare with 2011 pix.










Nothing can rival the spectacle for sheer carnival shlock, for Blade Runner post- apocalyptic glitz. The west side, more sedate and stately,  with more European style buildings also comes alive under effective lighting of the building faces.   I felt magnetically drawn to stand and gaze, like I might somehow store it up the for later.  This doesn’t work.  You can’t capture that kind of awesomeness, in your mind’s eye or with a camera.  (see below) But that doesn’t prevent anyone from  trying. Cameras are nearly as numerous as people in China and Shanghai’s Bund has its share of shutterbugs for sure.  It’s requisite if you visit Shanghai, you simply must have a photo, or several dozen photos, of you and your traveling companions in front of that electric backdrop. Cameras constantly click as though punctuating the hum of perpetual motion on this neon boulevard.

Blade Runner-esque Pudong skyline
East side of Huang Po River, Shanghai
 


Another view of the infamous skyline.....






West side of Bund - nicely lit European construction from early 1900's
















Early in the morning I’m watching tai chi, kite flying and badminton on the Bund.  It’s like the town square...a gathering place for all ages.   


Close-up of Kite
A very cool kite.


    

Tai chi, early morning on the Bund.
Bund Fun


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A tiny wizened mostly toothless lady approaches, gesturing toward my camera.  Hmmm, I wonder what she wants?  I aim my camera at her. Maybe she wants me to take her picture and show her?   She grabs my sleeve and pulls me toward the railing.  She’s wiry, but I’m pretty sure she can’t throw me over. She does manage to steer me to a position near the photo kiosk whose function is a bit of a mystery to me.  OK I guess she will get me to buy a photo of myself in front of the cloud enshrouded skyline.  I am powerless to resist  and still not exactly sure what’s happening, except that I am holding the hand of this cute diminuitive lady and someone at the booth is taking a picture.  I wander off, perplexed.  Shortly she reappears, proudly displaying an 8 x 10 glossy.  I look like a giant beside her in the photograph.  But of course I will buy one.  I start to reach for money mumbling some Mandarin phrase for  “how much.”  She shakes her head ….NO, No, bu yao.  Finally it dawns on me.  The little lady wants a picture of herself with the laowai!!, the white person.  I imagine she is in Shanghai for a holiday, probably wearing her best outfit and that she will display this photo along with the other sites of Shanghai to her friends back home.     I don’t know whether to be flattered to to feel like a sideshow freak.  Either way, it's OK .  She walks away quite pleased with herself and I have a memorable experience.



I took a picture of the picture :)



She was a sweet person.  Very happy and friendly; okay a little pushy too :)







                                                                                                                                                             Chinese infatuation with snapping pictures does not begin and end on the Bund.  Oh no.  The Shanghai history museum in the ground level of the Oriental Pearl building, houses some surprisingly well crafted exhibits of early life in the city.  Here I witness toddlers, teens, children, grown men and women climbing over exhibit barriers, to pose for photos,  Its pretty funny.  It also exemplifies a surprising characteristic of Chinese people that I observed more than once-
they don’t follow rules and they cut in line.


This is one of the exhibits depicting Old Shanghai.
A Chinese Teen would sit on the handlebars for a photo!
A bit less intrusive, but they just have to get in the picture!!
 This was at the Shanghai Aquarium, which was quite nice btw!))





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It’s our first morning in Beijing.  After a reasonable night’s sleep at our reasonably priced (read “very cheap, I’m on a pauper’s budget) Chinese hotel, we are now standing in the middle of Tiananmen Square.  Anyone who has not been in a cave or sleeping under a log for the last couple of decades of course knows the significance of that “People’s Square”, so I don’t need to go into that.  Prior to that most dramatic event on June 5 1989, most Westerners had likely never heard of the place ( no surprise, Americans can’t name seven continents, sigh).  Today it is among the top 10 things that you must see in Beijing and on this day it is swarming with activity.


Tiananmen Square (The People's Square")  Note the picture of "The Chairman" Mao on the far wall.



We stand out in this teeming throng.   I had anticipated that in a city of this size, there would be lots of Caucasians.  Not so.  in fact, myself with sort of ash blond hair and my fairly tall, chrome-domed brother are starting to feel like celebrities!  (picture Bruce Willis and Betty White)    People ask to have their photograph taken with us!   I kid you not. This is a first for me.  It feels odd and amusing.  And, like the incident in Shanghai, a good reminder that here in China we are the aliens.




No one would take a second glance at this
Bruce Willlis look-alike!

We don't look like tourists do we?



















Glen later points out to me that , I have been oblivous to the fact that ever since we set foot on the ground in this country we have been stared at!  "It's your hair"  he says.  "No I think it's yours"  I reply.  :)

Tuesday, January 3, 2012

 Chinese Booze - as promised, but first a few random comments:

Please note: The topics in this blog are in no particular order . They do not consist of a sequential journal of my sojourn in China.

ALSO: The first entries of this blog are pretty basic: transportation, food, booze; fear not! I’ll eventually tackle politics, the economy and the environment! Woohoo!

Addendum to the last post: Did I really write that entry about food in China without mentioning scorpions on a stick? On our first day out, walking between Bandung Hutong and the Forbidden City, I saw them. For some silly reason I didnt take a picture. We were on a tear to get our itinerary under way and I thought I’d probably see these things all over the place. In fact, this was the one and only time that I saw them, but it left an impression ( as Mr Don said Chinese people eat everthing!”) If you google scorpions on a stick”, you will see lots of photos, such as this:


Crunchy scorpions on sticks:  high protein, low cal, crunchy snack!


Finally - let's consider ethyl alcohol, Chinese style:
Three penis liquor. comes to mind.
I assume that I have your attention now. Of the varieties of alcohol that we sampled in China (part of the cultural experience, don’t you know!?) Three Penis is the one I’ll always remember ...and I never actually took a sip! Go figure.
In addition to ingesting a broad and esoteric range of food substances, as previously noted, the Chinese, not surprisingly, have created some delightful alcohol products. I discovered this early n my trip. In fact, on the flight to Beijing, the two Chinese gentlemen with whom I practiced my wobbly Mandarin skills (see entry # 1)  started right in withTsingdao beer, so I figured I should do likewise ( "when in Rome, or on the way to China....”)
Tsingdao is not a remarkable beer. I must digress briefly to a trip to Germany during which Mitch and I spontaneously documented each daily beer tasting event.

I can't find the amusing video that Mitch made of the beer tasting  :(  if/when I do locate it I will  post it here.  Just fyi, it consists of grinning photos of us holding various frothy glasses of German beer, accompanied by some German marcing music!  BTW, our favorite was Arlberger - a great whie beer!

Germans make good beer. (Perhaps you have heard of Octoberfest?) They make ...interesting beer. Even the one weissbier that we had at the German castle that I might have described as not great, possibly even bad, was, at least interesting in that it was a unique sensory experience. I relate this to state what is perhaps obvious: it’s hard to live up to German beer. Nevertheless, I drank several Tsingdaos and found them acceptable, even refreshing. It’s a light tasting inoffensive brew. Plus it’s made in Qingdao (pronounced the same way as the beer; is this maybe the Pinyin spelling? That’s a topic for another entry) And it comes in a spectacularly large bottle. To add to the excitement, each time I ordered one, I used this cool little ring bottle opener. 



Just as the seller was about to open the bottle, I politely waved their opener away and opened the bottle with my bare hand! At least that’s the way it appeared! ( Wow! It’s as exciting as having a secret decoder ring!) I am so easily amused! And, so evidently, are the Chinese. This silly little trick never failed to result in a broad Chinese smile. It would have been really sweet if they had been amused enough to give me a freeTsingdao!   But wait a minute. What am I complaining about, beer is very cheap in China, maybe 6RMB, or the equivalent of $1 USD for that large bottle!  Needless to say, since I still becoming accustomed to my newly acquired  pauper status, this inexpensive beverage became a staple.

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But what of hard liquor and the fruit of the vine? Every country seems to have its hooch or moonshine. In Brazil, it was Cachaca; in Peru, Pisco; in France, Calvados; in Tanzania - Konyagi. ETC.   (I’m really not a complete lush; I just like to try out the stuff that the locals imbibe; it’s fun and I do it mostly in moderation, for educational purposes of course!)

So what was China’s version? At Frands’ birtday (see entry # 2   ) Glen was chatting it up with the kid from Tenessee who filled him in: “Three Penis liquor.” Yep, it’s brewed with, just as the name suggests, 3 penises. Penises of what species, you might want to know. The bottle that Glen bought specified on the label: Cantonese dog, seal and deer, if I remember correctly. You probably don’t need to strain your imagination to discern the special properties that this particular hooch might confer upon those consuming it!    And one more point worth mentioning: it makes a great stocking stuffer!

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It was our last night in Shanghai. I had not had a glass of Chardonnay, my preferred poison, since leaving the states.  Wine was not readily available by the glass and buying a whole bottle to drink by myself could only lead to disaster so I made do with the aforementioned beer. 
 Glen and I stopped by the hotel bar where I tasted the best Chardonnay ever ..and I have tried a lot of Chardonnays. Dynasty Winery makes it. (good name for a Chinese winery don’t you think!?
Here's a link to their web site:
http://www.dynasty-wines.com/en/default.htm
I tried desperately to find a bottle to bring home; even emailed the company after getting home to see if I might find an American distributor. Alas, no reply. Maybe I need to send my message in Mandarin.
I won’t even try to describe the bouquet, color, legs, but my mouth is watering just thinking about that wine!   I wonder...was the Chard really that good? Or was it just the particular biochemisty of the moment? (have you noticed that wine/beer etc taste really really good sometimes. And the very same beverage quaffed on another occasion just doesn’ t cut it? I attribute this to one’s particular fluctuating chemical status as wine molecules contact olfactory and gustatory apparatus. Maybe. Or maybe it’s just a bad bottle?) Whatever.
I must procure a bottle of this stuff....to determine...was it really that good???? I’ll let you know when I find out.